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Hydroponic Foundations: Understanding Nutrients

Updated: Sep 23


Blog Cover: A mad scientist standing in front of his hydroponic plants, with a number of test vials in front of him

Alright, plant enthusiasts, buckle up! You've decided to grow your greens in what's essentially a high-tech spa for plants. In soil, plants get their nutrients from all that decomposing organic matter. In hydroponics? They’re relying on you to serve up everything they need. No pressure, but get this wrong, and you'll have the saddest salad in town!


But don't fretwe're about to make you a hydroponic hero, sans the cape but with all the know-how so you can avoid those rookie mistakes. Let’s dive in!


Macronutrients vs. Micronutrients: What Plants Need and Why

Just like humans need a balanced diet to stay healthy, plants need the right mix of nutrients to grow strong. In hydroponics, nutrients come in two main categories: macronutrients (the big stuff) and micronutrients (the tiny but mighty crew).


Macronutrients (NPK and Friends)

These are the heavy hitters—the nutrients plants need in large amounts to grow. They’re split into Primary Macronutrients and Secondary Macronutrients, but they’re all super important.


Primary Macronutrients (NPK): This trio—Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K)—is the backbone of plant growth.

  • Nitrogen (N) fuels all that leafy growth.

  • Phosphorus (P) is your root and flower booster.

  • Potassium (K) keeps your plants strong, disease-resistant, and firing on all cylinders.


Secondary Macronutrients: Don’t sleep on Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Sulfur (S). These might be needed in smaller amounts, but they’re still crucial.

  • Calcium keeps those cell walls sturdy.

  • Magnesium is the MVP of photosynthesis.

  • Sulfur is key for protein production.


Micronutrients: Small but Mighty

These are like the vitamins of the plant world—needed in trace amounts but vital for keeping everything running smoothly. The key players are Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Zinc (Zn), Copper (Cu), and Molybdenum (Mo).


Without these, your plants can end up looking a little sad. For example, iron deficiency = yellowing leaves, and too much of some micronutrients can even be toxic. So yeah, balance is everything.


The Fun and Challenge of Nutrient Optimization

One of the best things about hydroponics is that you’re in control of your plant's diet. You can fine-tune your nutrient solution to cater to different growth stages—lush green leaves for the vegetative stage and bloom-boosting nutrients when it’s time to show off. But, here’s the kicker: too much or too little of any nutrient can lead to issues like nutrient burn, deficiencies, or nutrient lockout (we’ll get into that in a bit).


For advanced growers, mixing your own nutrients might save money, but for beginners? Stick with pre-made liquid nutrients until you get the hang of it. Trust me, your plants will thank you.


How Plants Absorb Nutrients and Why Salt Buildup Happens

Plants are picky eaters. They’ll take what they need from your nutrient solution and leave the rest. And guess what? All that leftover material builds up in your reservoir as salts. If you don’t keep an eye on it, those salts can mess with your nutrient balance and stress out your plants.


That’s why you should keep an EC (Electrical Conductivity) and TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter handy, and remember to change your water regularly (typically every 1-2 weeks unless you're using a Hydro-Planter) to flush out any excess.


You can Check out Your Hydroponic Sidekick: The pH/EC Meter and The Importance of Journaling for Hydroponics for more info on meters and measurements.


Nutrient Lockout: What It Is and How to Prevent It

Nutrient lockout is a grower’s nightmare. It happens when your plants can’t absorb the nutrients they need, even though those nutrients are right there in the solution. Usually, this happens because the pH is off or because one nutrient is hogging the spotlight and blocking another.


For example, if you’ve got too much calcium, it can block the uptake of magnesium, leaving your plant starved for it. That’s why keeping your pH in check is crucial—most hydroponic systems thrive with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5, but it can vary a bit depending on the plant species.


What Is a Nutrient Set?

A nutrient set is your plant's meal kit, ensuring they get everything from soup to nuts throughout their growth stages. These sets are usually designed by one brand to make sure everything works together. You’ll see them in one-part, two-part, or three-part formulas.


Single vs. Two-Part vs. Three-Part Nutrients

Single-Part Nutrients: The simplest option—all the nutrients in one bottle. Super convenient but not the most precise and generally thicker and harder to work with. If your plants have specific needs, you’ll want more control.


Two-Part Nutrients: Comes in two bottles (often A and B) and gives you slightly more flexibility to tailor your feeding schedule to different growth stages.


Three-Part Nutrients: This is the most flexible setup. Usually labeled as Micro, Grow, and Bloom, it lets you dial in the nutrients for each growth stage like a pro and now with the Kanana Gardens App, there’s no longer a reason to shy away, as it couldn’t be simpler.


Hard Water Considerations

If you’ve got really hard water (0.6 mS/cm / 300 ppm or higher), you'll want to go for a “hardwater” micro formula (such as FloraMicro Hardwater). These skip the calcium because your water likely has more than enough already, and trust me, too much calcium can cause a world of hurt for your plants.


You can find out more about water sources in Hydroponic Foundations: Choosing a Water Source.


Supplements: When You Need Calcium and Magnesium

In hydroponics, Cal-Mag (Calcium and Magnesium) is a grower’s best friend. These two are often the first nutrients to run low, especially if you’re using RO (reverse osmosis) or distilled water. Tomatoes, peppers, and leafy greens are big Cal-Mag lovers, so adding a supplement to your mix can keep things running smoothly.


Signs of Deficiencies:

  • Calcium Deficiency: Blossom end rot in tomatoes and peppers, tip burn on fast-growing leafy greens (like lettuce and spinach). This occurs when calcium can't reach the growing tips due to rapid growth or low humidity.

  • Magnesium Deficiency: Yellowing between the veins on older leaves (interveinal chlorosis).


How to Mix Multi-Part Nutrients

Mixing multi-part nutrients in hydroponics isn’t just about dumping everything into the reservoir. There’s a specific order you need to follow to prevent chemical reactions that can render your nutrients useless or cause nutrient lockout. Here’s how to do it right:


  1. Start with Calcium (or Cal-Mag): If you're using a separate calcium supplement (like CaliMagic or Sensi Cal Mag Xtra), it should go in first, especially if you’re using RO or distilled water. Adding calcium first helps it dissolve properly and prevents it from reacting with other nutrients, particularly phosphates or sulfates.

  2. Micronutrients Next: After calcium, add your Micronutrients. Adding them after calcium ensures that these trace elements remain bioavailable to the plants.

  3. Add Grow/Bloom Last: Once the calcium and micronutrients are properly mixed, add your Grow and Bloom formulas. This ensures your phosphorus doesn’t cause calcium to precipitate (when nutrients chemically react and form solid particles, making them unavailable for plant uptake).

  4. Stir Between Additions: After adding each nutrient part, stir the water thoroughly to ensure everything is evenly distributed before adding the next part. This reduces the risk of precipitation and helps nutrients dissolve evenly.

  5. Buffers Go Last: Once all the nutrients are mixed, check the pH of your solution. If necessary, use a pH buffer to adjust the pH to the optimal range (typically 5.5 to 6.5 for most hydroponic plants). Buffers like pH up (potassium hydroxide) or pH down (phosphoric acid) should always be added last. This gives you the final control over the pH, ensuring it stays within the range where your plants can effectively absorb nutrients.

  6. Recheck pH: After adding the buffer, give your solution a final pH test. If needed, adjust with small amounts of buffer until you hit the target pH range.


💡 Pro Tip: Always dilute each part in water separately (Never pour concentrated nutrients directly into each other). This prevents any nutrients from reacting with each other and becoming useless.


Common Nutrient Sets for Hydroponics

Here are some of our favourite nutrient sets that are also supported by the Kanana Gardens App. The app monitors and optimizes your formulas, so you can focus on growing without worrying about all the technical stuff:

General Hydroponics: FloraSeries: A classic three-part system—FloraMicro, FloraGrow, and FloraBloom—paired with CaliMagic (for Cal-Mag support).

Advanced Nutrients: pH Perfect: Comes with Micro, Grow, Bloom, and Sensi Cal Mag Xtra.

Innovating Plant Products: High Output Gardens (HOG) (Canada): Includes Micro, Grow, Bloom, and Cal-Mega.

GroTek: Precision: Another versatile, three-part system paired with Cal-Max for added calcium and magnesium.


Final Thoughts: Keep It Simple, Stay Zen

Hydroponic nutrients might seem like you're solving a puzzle, but you don't need to be Einstein. Start simple, watch your pH and EC levels, and remember—plants are forgiving (well, sometimes). Once you've got the hang of it, then you can truly start to experiment!


And for easy mode? Grab the Kanana Gardens App—it’s like having a personal plant assistant, minus the backtalk. It’ll help you fine-tune your nutrient game, track water conditions, and keep your plants thriving like the green champions they are. Best part? It’s free for typical household use.


You’ve got this!

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